- GREDDY EMANAGE BLUE CABLE HOW TO
- GREDDY EMANAGE BLUE CABLE INSTALL
- GREDDY EMANAGE BLUE CABLE PATCH
- GREDDY EMANAGE BLUE CABLE FULL
Also, I was reading Quinn's build thread over on Clubroadster, and it seems like he's been having a bit of a nightmare getting his Adaptronic even running at all, i decided i was not ready for that level of frustration and decided that it was best to get something else, especially since my power goals aren't astronomical. We definitely need to meet up one of these days, ive had a hard time finding hard core miata enthusiasts in my area.Īs far as why I chose the Emanage- What I really wanted was the Adaptronic, but it's just too expensive. would those same injectors work well with the EMB on my 2002 NB? I am definitely not a fan of running small injectors at near max duty cycle Oh, is there anything special I need to know about choosing injectors when working with the EMB? If the 323 GTX injectors are good enough to get Elder C to 219whp, they definitely exceed my power goals. How far ( in terms of rwhp ) could i get with just an injector and fuel pump upgrade, without changing over to a return style fuel system? Also, can you explain why a non return system will accumulate contaminants in the tank, not sure i understand that one. I hate letting other people work on my cars, but im such a n00b at this ECU tuning stuff.
I'll be researching more open/closed loop general info today, i really would just like to tune this thing myself. Reply With Interesting, i had not considered any of that Bob, still learning the ins and outs of piggyback ecu tuning, and i definitely don't think i have my head wrapped around the open/closed loop differences yet. You'll find this advantageous even for naturally aspirated, and a necessity for boosting. What you end up with, is a fuel delivery system that runs at 60 psi for open loop, and with vacuum loss, closed loop at 70 psi. You can use the oem fuel rail, by eliminating the pulse dampner and routing the return line to where it was. The fuel pump is $100+, the fuel pressure regulator is $150+, the rest of the return system is less than $50 at the dealer. First and foremost is using the fuel pressure as a tuning aid, without returning to the expensive dyno after your base tuning is done, and second you eliminated the preponderance of the non-return system to accumulate contaminates in the tank. The advantages of this type of fuel system are many.
GREDDY EMANAGE BLUE CABLE INSTALL
Changing over to a return style fuel system, is cheap and easy to do, simply use an earlier oem model return system, upgrade the pump, and install the adjustable fuel pressure regulator. The answer is a larger fuel pump, (Walbro 255 lph hp) and a adjustable, vacuum sensitive, fuel pressure regulator, in a return style system that you currently don't have.
GREDDY EMANAGE BLUE CABLE HOW TO
So then the problem becomes, how to jack the pressure up for closed loop only. The oem computer is calibrated to use 53 to 61 psi of fuel pressure, and it is best to use that pressure for open loop operation, as the greedy only adjusts for closed loop. If you use larger injectors for the increased flow requirements, then less pressure is required. The problem is, the oem pump isn't capable of 70 psi at the flow rates needed for 150 rwhp. All injectors are rated for flow at 45 psi, our cars use 60 psi, and our injectors remain reliable up to 70 psi. Your current injectors are probably big enough, but only if you jack up the fuel pressure. Kepone, Elder makes a good point, you must upgrade the fuel system. Boosted will give you more hp, but the throttle responce will soften. You'll probably end up with 130+ rwhp, in naturally asperated state, but the throttle responce will be much improved. Set the timing and a/f ratio on a dyno with a remote electronic knock sensor, and the operator listening to it. Don't trust the oem knock sensor, you'll probably have to relocate it, off of the block, because the Greedy makes it far to sensitive.
GREDDY EMANAGE BLUE CABLE FULL
You want a 14.7 to 1 a/f ratio in open loop, enrichning to about 12.5 under full throttle closed loop, but only for naturally asperated, boosted applications want more fuel and less timing on top. In closed loop, the greedy controls all, but the oem timing is adaquite and the a/f ratio is rich. Using the Greedy, basicly allows the oem computer to control the a/f while in open loop, with the exception of timing, so adding a little timing on bottom will sharpen up the throttle responce and increase the tq a few pound on bottom. I set my 99 to advance +4 from 1500 to 4100, then back to oem above that, but I don't have VVT. The necessity of smog inspections, requires no more the three degrees, either side of 10, but that's at idle. I would suspect some low end timing advance would be beneficial.
GREDDY EMANAGE BLUE CABLE PATCH
I agree the Greedy patch cord is outrageously priced. I understand a standard usb will plug in to both, but have no idea if it will work.